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The Šibenik Archipelago – the best known secret in the Adriatic Sea (2/3)

Prvić Šepurine

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In Prvić Luka there are significantly more berths. Visitors can either moor at the large jetty with mooring lines or at one of the 12 buoys in the harbour basin. The oldest village on the island with its lovingly restored stone cottages stretches along the protected bay. A memorial centre at the harbour jetty was opened in 2014, commemorating the island’s most famous son, Faust Vrančić, a scientist and discoverer. There are numerous restaurants right on the waterfront, attracting visitors with their fresh fish and home-made wine, accompanied by lapping waves. Prvić is the ideal place to relax.

 

 

However, we cannot stay, as even though it is difficult to tear ourselves away, we still have to go to Zlarin. The island village of the same name lies in the north of the island. For centuries the locals in Zlarin fished for sponges and corals, but that is now history. Today, the approx. 150 inhabitants live on fishing, winegrowing and tourism.

 

Sprawling palm trees decorate the promenade, green lime-washed window shutters adorn the facades of the well-kept stone cottages. And a few restaurants in between serve their dishes and drinks.

The harbour is a fishing harbour, ferry port and yacht harbour in one. Yachts moor on the north side of the long jetty. Electricity, water and mooring lines are included. A NW wind generates a strong swell, causing our yacht to rock all night long. Fortunately, at the Aldura konoba right behind the jetty they not only serve good food and delicious draught beer, but also a good strong espresso.

So, now invigorated, we set off to our next destination. But before we can head for Kaprije, we want to make a short trip to the island of Tijat. Tijašćica bay is located in the south of the island, has clear water and is surrounded by green pine forests. 18 buoys have been available here since 2012. There is a small rotisserie at the northern seafront that only opens in  summer. Should you need an after-dinner walk, you can hike on the mountain, which is 120 m high and has a summit cross. Visitors can enjoy a glorious view from up here of the surrounding islands.

 

Kaprije, Kunjka Konoba

We plane towards the north-east coast of Kaprije to Medos bay. The bright turquoise clear water is noticeable already at the approach. The seabed can be seen clearly even where the water is 10 m deep. Yachts moor at a small floating jetty with mooring lines. Should the 6-8 berths be taken, there are still 4 buoys available. All of the berths belong to the Kunjka konoba, which opened in 2011. The small konoba is low-key, but fits into the landscape perfectly. They not only serve fresh fish and barbecued steaks, but Lammpeka also comes highly recommended, however it has to be ordered at least two hours in advance because of the long cooking time.

Further to the south, hidden behind the small island of Oštrica, is the Antonio konoba. Antonio Junaković runs this small konoba with a guesthouse. The speciality here is the Peka made with lamb, octopus or calamari.

Fans of fine-dining will get their money’s worth in Nozdra bay in the south of the island. Matteo has established itself here. The landlord Mate Obratov had already made a good name in the Kornati before he came to Kaprije. The restaurant is built into the slope and extremely sleek. Not only can guests enjoy the tuna carpaccio speciality, but naturally there are fresh fish and meat dishes, too. The jetty provides berths for 10-14 yachts. Because of the shallow water, boats moor bow-to. Right next to Matteo is G8. Not quite so well-known but more homely and just as good.

 

Kakan, Potkučina

We sail around the southern tip of Kaprije and set off towards Kakan, or more precisely Potkučina bay. We are impressed by the colour intensity of the water right at the approach, perfecting the impression of a perfect lagoon. The Borovnjak islands off the coast provide shelter from waves. There are 60 buoys in total in the bay. The “Babalu” rotisserie is nestled in the mountain’s crest between green pine trees and bushes. Not only will guests be served good food here, they can also enjoy a glorious view of the bay. The concession holder of the buoys is also the owner of Paradiso in Tratica bay. Zoran, the boss of the Paradiso konoba, could have even just stepped out of a Robinson Crusoe film, his hair being so white and wild. The white beard and the white hair have long become his trademark. Together with his wife he mainly serves fresh fish and seafood. They also have meat dishes. The tables at the konoba are under pine trees. A small jetty also belongs to the konoba with berths for 3-4 yachts. Sailing yachts, however, have to keep some distance between each other because of their draughts.

Kaprije

The distances between each island in the Šibenik archipelago are very short. There is only 1.2 nm between Tratica bay in Kakan and Kaprije harbour in the island of the same name. Kaprije harbour actually consists of one long jetty with places for about 20 yachts. The northern side has to be kept clear for ferries. Yachts moor on the southern side with mooring lines. Water and electricity is available. There are 24 buoys to the south of the jetty for visitors. The older part of the village with its stone cottages is located slightly higher up, a few newer houses are clustered around the harbour basin. In spring, oleander blossoms in front of practically every house, and vegetables, figs and grapes grow in the immaculate gardens.

Kaprije, Hafen

We go inside the Kot Kate konoba, slightly above the harbour. Kate runs the cosy konoba in a small side street together with her son. We meet two policija officers there whose speedboat we had already spotted in the harbour. They tell us that a military exercise will be taking place in the next 24 hours just off Žirje and that the entire maritime area to the west and south-west of Žirje is closed. Annoying as that is exactly where we wanted to go next. So we decided we would first order some fresh gilthead seabream at Kate’s konoba served with vegetables from the garden. Simply delicious! Kate´s son is a fisherman and a fireman. Meanwhile, he has rang “Ante”, a friend in Žirje. Ante is also a fireman, born in Žirje and knows the island like the back of his hand. He offers to take us across the island in his old off-road vehicle and to show us everything. A local tour guide! We willingly accept his offer, obviously. Before we leave, we drink some more of Kate’s home-made schnapps. They really do work small miracles in moderation.

 

Have you already read part 1? And don’t forget part 3!

 

Find out more on mySea.

 Posted by 24 Sep 2014 / 1 comments

The Šibenik Archipelago – the best known secret in the Adriatic Sea (1/3)

Everyone’s heard of Kvarner, the Kornati, Krka! But what about Potkučina, Prvić or Zirje? If you were to ask a skipper about their preferred destinations in the Adriatic coast, the Šibenik archipelago will hardly get a mention, and if it does, then at the most as a stopover on the way to Skradin. Most charter guests also prefer to start somewhere between Zadar and Murter or Trogir and Split. Even though Šibenik is centrally located in between the international airports of Split (about 60 km) and Zadar (about 75 km) and the motorway exit is only a few kilometres away from the harbour and marina, Šibenik was never able to establish itself as a tourist destination unlike its popular neighbours.  

 

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But why is that? Is bad marketing to blame or a lack of infrastructure or less attractive destinations? It’s true that Mandalina Marina is the only marina and the harbours also have expansion potential. Equally true is that the islands are abundant in beautiful bays and sheltered anchorages. Nature lovers, discoverers and keen swimmers will get their money’s worth here, too.

 

Šibenik with its 43,000 inhabitants is more urban than other places on the Adriatic coast. The reason for this is not least because Šibenik never had to push tourism like other places that mainly live from tourism. This town on the river Krka still has an intact industry today and many people work in the energy sector.

Prvić harbour

They simply aren’t dependent on tourism as much as the well-known towns and villages nearby. So it’s hardly surprising that you will see less tourists in Šibenik than e.g. in the neighbouring town of Vodice, which is more developed for tourism. There is not much for visitors to see, only industrial plants and harbour installations, apart from when they arrive and depart. Then they get to see especially the magnificent buildings built during the old Austrian empire, the Venetian fortifications, palaces, churches as well as cafés and restaurants in historic buildings. People who are interested in culture but while holidaying still do not want to miss out on any urban dynamism, they should visit Šibenik, also a UNESCO World Heritage site. And not only as a quick side trip.

We set sail at the beginning of May with a professional skipper from Šibenik to explore the archipelago. We wanted to discover harbours, bays and anchorages in the archipelago. Of course, we also wanted to explore the culinary side. We start at the D-Marin Mandalina in Šibenik with Prvić as our destination.

Prvić Šepurine

The entrance to St. Anthony’s Channel has red and green markings on both sides and is completely hassle-free even in the dark. Signalling equipment has been installed for ships weighing at least 50 tonnes. We pass quickly through the channel, which is between 150 and 220 m wide, in spite of the speed limit of 10 knots. The cliffs on the south side protrude slightly more steeply but are just as green as the cliffs on the opposite side. At the western end of the channel there is a small anchorage and an imposing fortress in front of it. At St. Nicholas fortress, dating from the 15 th century, visitors can moor at a small jetty. However, there is only space here for one single yacht. And the swell generated by the incoming and outgoing ships is quite significant.

But we want to keep going. The engines of our Phantom 40 push powerfully through the glassy ocean towards the north-west to Prvić. It is the closest island to the mainland and a worthwhile destination. Both places on the island – Šepurine in the north-west and Prvić Luka in the south – are a clear contrast to touristy Vodice or urban Šibenik. It is a lot quieter and more relaxed here. The 500 inhabitants are mainly among themselves now in the pre-season. Only a few yachts manage to find their way here. We first call at Prvić Šepurine, the main town on the island. Šepurine is a quiet place, off the beaten mass tourist track. The church of St. Mary of the Assumption towers over the village and its 400 inhabitants, many pretty stone cottages are clustered around the harbour.

Prvić Šepurine

Now in May, many locals are still busy getting ready for the new season. The final touches are being done on the facades, fishermen are painting their boats and the konoba terraces are being prepared with seats. Even thought the May sun in a cloudless sky is already radiating heat, proclaiming the approaching start of the season, it is not hectic. Not even Maria, the owner of the Bare konoba. She is pruning the small olive trees in front of the entrance to the konoba. And she tells us that it is very difficult in the season to get one of the few berths at the harbour. From June to September the berths are usually taken by noon. Not totally selflessly she adds that sometimes it is possible to reserve a berth at her place. This, of course, also includes a visit to the konoba.

 

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The mySea team was travelling on a Phantom 40 von NCP and Mare yacht charter. NCP and Mare is member of Euminia, the review system for charter yachts. Euminia displays yacht charter reviews from real boaters.

 

Don’t miss parts 2 & 3 of this article!

 Posted by 18 Sep 2014 / 2 comments

Šibenik Archipel – mehr als nur ein Zwischenstopp (1/3)

Die Namen sind bekannt: Kvarner, Kornaten, Krka! Doch wer kennt Potkučina, Prvić oder Zirje? Fragt man Skipper nach ihren bevorzugten Zielen in der Adria wird der Archipel von Šibenik nur selten genannt und wenn, dann höchstens als Zwischenstopp auf dem Weg nach Skradin. Auch die meisten Chartergäste wollen irgendwo zwischen Zadar und Murter oder Trogir und Split starten. Obwohl Šibenik zwischen den beiden internationalen Flughäfen in Split (ca. 60 km) und Zadar (ca. 75 km) zentral gelegen ist und auch die Autobahnausfahrt nur wenige Kilometer von Hafen und Marina entfernt ist, konnte sich Šibenik nie als Destination gegenüber den bekannten Nachbarn durchsetzen.  

 

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Warum ist das eigentlich so? Liegt es am schlechten Marketing, fehlender Infrastruktur oder an weniger attraktiven Zielen? Sicher ist, dass es neben der Marina Mandalina keine weitere Marina gibt und die Häfen auch noch Ausbaupotenzial haben. Genauso sicher ist aber auch, dass die Inseln reich an schönen Buchten und sicheren Ankerplätzen sind. Naturliebhaber,  Entdecker und badehungrige Crews kommen gleichermaßen auf ihre Kosten.

 

Šibenik mit seinen über 43.000 Einwohnern ist urbaner als andere Orte an der Adria. Das liegt nicht zuletzt daran, dass Šibenik den Tourismus nie so sehr forcieren musste, wie andere Orte, die hauptsächlich vom Tourismus leben. Die Stadt an der Krka hat noch heute eine intakte Industrie und viele Beschäftigte im Energiesektor.

Hafen Prvić

Man ist auf den Tourismus schlicht nicht so angewiesen wie die berühmten Nachbarorte. So ist es nicht verwunderlich, dass in Šibenik weniger Touristen anzutreffen sind als zum Beispiel im benachbarten und touristisch weit mehr erschlossenen Vodice. Dabei bekommen Besucher von den Industrie- und Hafenanlagen außer bei An- und Abreise eigentlich nichts zu sehen.  Denn die sehen vor allem die Prachtbauten der alten Österreicher, die Befestigungsanlagen der Venezianer, Paläste, Kirchen sowie Cafés und Restaurants in historischen Gebäuden. Šibenik, das zum UNESCO Weltkulturerbe gehört, ist gerade für kulturinteressierte Besucher, die  auch im Urlaub die urbane Dynamik nicht missen möchten, eine Reise wert. Nicht nur als kurzer Abstecher.

Anfang Mai machen wir uns zusammen mit einem professionellen Skipper aus Šibenik auf, um den Archipel zu erkunden. Unser Ziel ist es Häfen, Buchten und Ankerplätze im Archipel zu entdecken. Ferner wollen wir natürlich auch die gastronomische Seite erkunden. Wir starten in der D-Marin in Sibenik mit Ziel Prvić.

Prvić Šepurine

Die Einfahrt in den Sv. Ante Kanal ist zu beiden Seiten rot / grün markiert und auch bei Dunkelheit völlig problemlos. Für Schiffe ab 50 Tonnen ist eine Signalanlage installiert. Die Passage des zwischen 150 und 220 Meter breiten Kanals ist trotz der Höchstgeschwindigkeit von max. 10 Knoten schnell geschehen. Die Klippen am südlichen Ufer ragen etwas steiler empor, sind aber ebenso grün bewachsen wie am gegenüber liegenden Ufer. Am westlichen Ende des Kanals liegt eine kleine Ankerbucht und davor eine imposante Festung. An der Sv. Nikola Festung aus dem 15. Jahrhundert kann man an einem kleinen Steg festmachen. Allerdings ist hier nur Platz für eine einzelne Yacht. Und der Schwell durch die ein- und auslaufenden Schiffe ist erheblich.

Wir wollen aber weiter. Kraftvoll schieben die Motoren unsere Phantom 40 durch das spiegelglatte Meer Richtung Nordwesten nach Prvić. Die Insel ist dem Festland am nächsten gelegen und ein  lohnendes Ziel. Die beiden Inselorte – Šepurine im Nordwesten und Prvićluka im Süden – sind ein deutlicher Kontrast zum touristischen Vodice oder dem urbanen Šibenik. Hier geht es deutlich ruhiger und entspannter zu. Jetzt in der Vorsaison sind die knapp 500 Einwohner noch meist unter sich. Nur wenige Yachten finden den Weg hierher. Zunächst laufen wir Prvić Šepurine, den Hauptort der Insel an. Šepurine ist ein ruhiger Ort abseits des ganz großen Massentourismus. Überragt von der Kirche Maria Himmelfahrt, gruppieren sich die hübschen Natursteinhäuser des 400 Einwohner Dorfs um den Hafen herum.

Prvić Šepurine

Jetzt im Mai sind viele Bewohner noch mit Saisonvorbereitungen beschäftigt. Letzte Arbeiten an den Fassaden werden erledigt, Fischer streichen Ihre Boote und in den Konobas werden die Terrassen bestuhlt. Auch wenn die Maisonne schon warm vom wolkenlosen Himmel strahlt und den bevorstehenden Saisonbeginn verkündet, kommt keinerlei Hektik auf. Auch nicht bei Maria, der Eigentümerin der Konoba Bare. Sie schneidet die Olivenbäumchen, die vor den Eingang zur Konoba stehen. Dabei erzählt sie, dass es in der Saison sehr schwierig ist einen der wenigen Liegeplätze im Hafen zu ergattern. Von Juni bis September sind die Liegeplätze meist schon ab  mittags vergeben. Nicht ganz uneigennützig fügt sie hinzu, dass es manchmal möglich sei, bei Ihr einen Platz zu reservieren. Besuch in der Konoba natürlich eingeschlossen.

 

Das und mehr findest du auf mySea.

Das mySea-Team war unterwegs mit einer Phantom 40 von NCP und Mare charter. NCP und Mare lässt sich von seinen Charterkunden bewerten. Die Bewertungen von echten Charterkunden gibt es auf Euminia.

 

Verspass nicht die Teile 2 & 3 des Artikels!

 Posted by 18 Sep 2014 / 0 comments