Anchorages in the north and east of the island of Kea

An alternative to the large bay of Ag. Nikolaos is Otzias Bay, slightly further north. The long bay is always a little rough when there is a north wind, and there is an obvious swell in the bay. When there are NE winds, the bay is untenable and visitors need to look for another option as soon as possible.

The crescent-shaped bay can accommodate a whole range of yachts, which anchor here on a sandy seabed in front of the cordoned-off swimming area. If visitors do not feel like cooking, they will find two taverns on shore. The “Annas” tavern is open all year round and has a glorious view of the bay from its upper terrace.

In the north-east, Ormos Kalydonychi cuts into the steep rocky shore of Kea. The bay is also known as Spathi, as that is the name of the nearby cape. The bay provides shelter from the Meltemi even though there is a slight swell and gusts may blow through the river valley. Yachts anchor swinging freely on the hook without a shore line at a water depth of 3-8 m above a sandy seabed with good holding. On shore, a lovely sandy beach stretches out and it is often empty, behind that a few scattered holiday homes and fields. A small tavern is open in the summer. The bay is isolated and can only be reached by boat. There is a footpath into the valley but it is extremely winding and a struggle to walk on.

There are a number of small bays with crystal-clear water, some with lovely sandy beaches, along the steep coast towards the south. But the bays are all quite deep and do not provide enough protection. Visitors hoping to enjoy some peace and quiet should certainly explore the small bays when the weather is calm.

Ormos Polais lies in the south-east of Kea. The landscape of the bay is very beautiful, but it does not provide enough protection when there is a north wind, therefore it is only suitable for a stopover when the weather is calm. There is a visible rock in the middle of the bay. The shallow reef between the rock and the beach divides the bay more or less into two sections. There is a beach, roughly 200 m long, at the waterfront as well as two chapels.

The bay is well-known for the ruins of a temple dedicated to Apollo and Athena. The ruins have been recently restored and rebuilt.

Anchorages on the west coast of Kea

There are more sheltered anchorages on the west coast of Kea. The most well-known is Ormos Kavia near Koundouros.  The swimming bay, surrounded by a barren rocky landscape, provides protection from the north winds in summer. When entering the bay, it is necessary to pay attention to the shoal, which is marked on the map and lies far out at sea (and therefore unexpected). In the bay, yachts need to keep enough distance to the waterfront as rock ledges run far into the water from the headland. The calmest anchorages are on the western side if the land lines are run out towards the north. These spots, however, are usually always taken first.

St. George´s tavern has been closed since 2011, but the bungalow resort is still operating.

There are lovely holiday apartments around the bay, which mainly belong to affluent Athenians. However, the culinary offer is limited. During the day the club-like complex, Porto Koundouros, serves good food, snacks and cocktails.

It borders on Pisses Bay to the north. This green bay is surrounded by an impressive mountain backdrop and lies in the largest valley in Kea where fruit and vegetables are cultivated. The sandy beach, some 400 m long, skirts the waterfront. Although the bay is completely open towards the west and there is often a slight swell, yachts can still moor here overnight. The most secure places are on the northern side with a line towards the shore.  Two taverns on land are on hand should visitors decide not to want to cook themselves.

Vroskopos is extremely popular, even though mostly unknown. Well-hidden, if coming from inland it can only be reached by a winding beaten path but it is a struggle to get through. This sheltered bay faces north. There is a glorious white beach at the vertex of the bay. The water is crystal clear and is ideal for swimming. If staying overnight, shore lines should be run out towards the north and a lot of chain let out as the bay is quite deep. Many Athenians come to this idyll in the high season and at weekends in their power RIBs and motor yachts.

Ormos Ag. Nikolaos is a large bay in the north-west of the island and is made up of the two smaller bays of Ormos Leivadi in the south-west and Ormos Vourkari in the east.

In Vourkari the harbour of the same name is very popular with sailors as it protects from the prevailing winds and there is less swell there compared to the ferry port in Korrisia. (Sailing)Yachts normally moor here bow-to as the rock-fill directly at the quay could damage (deep) rudder blades. To make the descent over the pulpit easier, some taverns and a small furniture dealer have built wooden steps.There is water and electricity at the jetty. The required pre-paid cards can be obtained at the supermarket where they also sell fresh bread in the mornings.

Vourkari is a typical Greek harbour with flair. The narrow thoroughfare runs directly past the harbour basin. The narrowness of the street seems to encourage most car and scooter drivers to adopt a moderate driving style, which is appropriate as the yachties tend to use the narrow pavements and half the street for spontaneous “meetings”. The later the evening (and with it alcohol consumption), the more the street becomes a wide pier.

There are a few restaurants and bars right on the street. The Aristos tavern is especially favoured for its excellent fish dishes. Kostas, the proprietor, very modestly refers to his restaurant as “world famous”. Each guest will have to decide for themselves in how far this is true. But it does not affect its popularity, especially among water sports enthusiasts. Many Greeks come to Vourkari at the weekend just to eat the fresh fish dishes at “Aristos”.

Whoever likes fish but prefers to cook on board should wait for the fishing cutters, which come in at about 9-10 am. The fishermen sell their catch straight from their boats if the catch was large enough.

The culinary offers in the harbour of Vourkari are not only limited to one fish tavern. Visitors who prefer meat should visit the “Vourkarion”. The meat comes from animals bred and slaughtered on the island. Most of them live wild in the mountains and valleys, which obviously benefits the taste.

Should any visitors not have been able to get one of the popular berths at the quay, then they can anchor in the bay. In the off-peak season it is possible to moor with the bow anchor swinging freely on the hook without a shore line when there are only a few yachts in the bay. However, the water is deep and the seabed does not provide a good hold everywhere. It is better to moor stern-to opposite the harbour. There are a number of fixing points  in the rock for the land lines. If mooring here, then it is worth visiting Istrofi tou Mimi. Guests sit right on the beach with their feet in the sand and can observe the incoming yachts as they manoeuvre, very romantic.

The harbour in Korissia ia a good alternative to Vourkari. South of the ferry dock, there are berths for approx. 20 yachts. There is also water and electricity here for a small contribution. The cards can be obtained at the kiosk right next to the “Magazes” restaurant. Christos, the proprietor and heart and soul of “Magazes”, will gladly assist guests if they have problems with their yacht and need help.

The harbour town consists of a long quay and two rows of houses in the background, towered over by the pastel-coloured church with the blue dome. There is a wide road in between, which is closed to traffic every evening between 8 pm and 6 am in the season. And so the area around the harbour basin suddenly becomes a pedestrian area. A true blessing, not only for a peaceful night.

The harbour protects well but the north wind causes a slight swell in the harbour, which is why it is recommended to moor with the own mast offset from the neighbour’s. Incoming and outgoing ferries also generate a slight swell, but it has no large effect on the anchored yachts. The northern part of the dock is reserved for ferries. A small elevation on the pier marks where the berths for yachts start. Water and electricity is available for a fee.

There are a number of bars, cafés and restaurants along the waterfront. Popular with locals and tourists alike are “Magazes” and “To steki Stroggili”. The fresh fish dishes at “Magazes” are highly recommended. “To steki Stroggili”, which is located slightly up the mountain, is also known for its good meat and cooked dishes. There are also a few simple restaurants and a fast-food restaurant. The many cafés are ideal for observing the going-ons in the harbour.

Konoba Go-Ro

Konoba Go-Ro

The Konoba Go-Ro lies in Magrovica Bay on the island of Dugi Otok and is run by Goran and his son Jakov. They produce or catch most of the ingredients for their dishes themselves. For example, the vegetables they grow behind the house are harvested fresh. They catch the fish themselves or buy it from local fishermen and then barbecue it.

Guests are very welcome from 15 April to 15 October, in high season guests should reserve a table in advance. The Go-Ro is one of the high-priced konobas, but the fresh ingredients and the home-made wine make up for it.

Konoba Opat

Konoba Opat

Konoba Opat lies in the bay of the same name on the island of Kornat. It is one of the higher-priced restaurants and guests need to make a reservation in high season as Konoba Opat is one of the most popular konobas in the Kornati. If you ask one of the local skippers to recommend a konoba in the Kornati, they will almost always name the “Opat”.

The grounds are well-kept and have been adapted to the surroundings. Specialities include John Dory carpaccio with truffles, tuna tartar, mussels and lobster with spaghetti. The konoba has a selection of good wines and a cocktail bar. Guests can moor at the Konoba Opat jetty, which provides water and electricity (both with limited availability). As the restaurant is very popular and crowded, a reservation through mySea is recommendable.

Konoba Stiniva

Konoba Stiniva

Konoba Stiniva lies on the eastern side of the island of Kornat in the bay of the same name and is special in many respects. When approaching, it is difficult to imagine anything at all in the barren rocky landscape. But when sailing closer to the bay, the bay opens up to a breathtaking, beautiful natural landscape. The konoba and the private home of Ivan Loric and his family are totally surrounded by the cliffs.

The culinary offer is very simple but fresh. They only serve lamb and a few drinks such as beer, water and soft drinks. Sometimes even home-made wine. Ivan Loric and his family live on the island the whole year round off what they can produce in the barren landscape and are not dependant on tourists. Sometimes strangers are simply in the way. An image of recluses similar to “Heidi’s Alp-Uncle” comes to mind.

4-5 yachts can moor with mooring lines in front of the small harbour basin, which is only for small fishing boats. There are no other mooring possibilities nearby. Ivan sometimes saves a space for regular guests.

Konoba Quattro

Konoba Quattro

Konoba Quattro lies in Strižnja Bay in the island of Kornat. It is a family business and run by Jere Skracic. Jerer speaks German and English as well as Italian, so nothing stands in the way of some small talk. Guests can moor at two jetties where the water is up to 3.2 m deep at the western jetty and 1.8 m at the eastern jetty. Spaces can also be saved for regular guests, especially in the high season. Specialities of the house include peka, meat and fish cooked over an open fire. Guests can enjoy a fantastic view of the bay while dining.

Restaurant Festa

Restaurant Festa

The Restaurant Festa near Marina Žut is regarded as one of the best restaurants in Central Dalmatia and is also one of the high-priced konobas. World famous sportspeople or Hollywood stars have been seen at the Festa, Guests need to reserve a table in the high season. Specialities include barbecued fish and seafood cooked in the traditional Kornati way, under the peka or the bread oven. They accept all cards and cash payments. The beautiful view, a good selection of wines as well as the location between 100-year old olive trees make the Festa one of the best restaurants. There is water and electricity at the jetty. Book your berth at Restaurant Festa jetty online on mySea.

Konoba Sandra

Konoba Sandra is a true alternative to the exclusive Festa or the Marina Restaurant at ACI Marina Žut. The boss, Damir Bozilov, is a fisher himself and his own fishing cutter is moored at the konoba’s jetty. The konoba has its own jetty for up to 20 yachts. On the northern side of the jetty the water is up to 5 m deep, the inner area is only suitable for yachts with a maximum draught of approx. 1 m. Electricity is free of charge, there is only water if there is enough available as water is scarce in Žut and the Kornati.

Damir makes sure that only fresh wild fish and no farmed fish is served. Konoba Sandra is known for its char-grilled fish and especially for its Brodetto, a kind of stew with fish and fresh vegetables. Guests sit slightly higher on the terrace from where they can enjoy the beautiful view of the bay. You can book your berth at Restaurant Sandry jetty here on line.

Konoba Zmara

Konoba Zmara

The Kooba Zmara, also known as Sabuni, lies in Sabuni Bay on the island of Žut. The konoba is a family business and known for its fresh wild fish. They do not serve farmed fish. The view of the crystal-clear water of the bay is indeed special. Sabuni means as much as “a lot of sand”. In fact, the water above the sandy seabed does look extremely clear and shimmers in all shades of blue. Guests can moor at the konoba’s jetty where the water is up to 4 m deep. There is no water or electricity. Alternative guets can pick up a buoy in front of the restaurant. As this beautiful place is very popular, an advance reservation for a berth at Konoba Zmara is recommended.

The mySea team hope you have fun discovering new konobas and indulging yourselves!

arial view of Kornati National Park

The Kornati National Park consists of nearly 90 islands, islets and reefs, covering an area of 220 km². Kornat, the largest island, gave the archipelago its name and has an area of 33 km². It has extremely little vegetation. Most of the Kornati islands are made of water-permeable and water-soluble limestone. The karstified barren landscape has no flora to speak of, only in a few places where soil was able to be deposited do small trees and bushes grow. The Kornati and the neighbouring islands are popular with sailors and motorboaters because of this barrenness and their many beautiful anchorages, buoys and harbours. But the Kornati also have many culinary delights.

We will be introducing some of these restaurants in two articles. You can find many more restaurants and konobas in the Kornati and the neighbouring islands on mySea where you will also find more information about each restaurant. Or log in and click the link on top of the restaurant descriptions, which will take you to their detail pages.

Konoba Beban

Konoba Beban

Konoba Beban lies in Lopatica Bay in Kornat and is run by the Beban brothers, one of the last shepherds in the Kornati. In their restaurant they serve their own lamb as well as fish with vegetables and potatoes. The Beban is a family business and is also known for its lamb peka. Guests can make reservations from 1 May to 1 October between 10 am – midnight and they are recommended to do so in high season. It makes sense to pre-order the peka if you do not feel like waiting 2-3 hours for the dish to be cooked. Yachts can moor at the stone mole or the floating jetty where the water is up to 2.5 m deep. Alternatively, visitors can pick up one of the mooring lines or anchor in the bay.

Konoba Levrnaka

Konoba Levrnaka

Levrnaka lies in the bay of the same name opposite the island of Sušica and counts as one of the largest konobas in the Kornati. Guests can enjoy a glorious view of the bay from its terrace. The owner, Mladen Ježina, has built a sturdy jetty with mooring lines, electricity and water in order to offer his guests a secure berth and a calm night. Even yachts with a large draught will not have any problems mooring as the water depth is between 2-3.5 m. If all of the places at the jetty are taken, visitors can also moor at one of the buoys. It is not recommended to take the approach through the passage between the islands of Sušica and Lavrnaka as it is very shallow.

The konoba is a family business and serves home-made dishes with lamb, fish and seafood. The Levrnaka is open everyday from 1 May to 15 October and accepts credit cards (Amex, Mastercard,Visa). Guests can reserve a table in the restaurant or on the terrace.

Konoba Aquarius

Konoba Aquarius

The Aquarius lies directly on Mala Proversa, the narrow passage between Dugi Otok and Katina. 2-3 yachts can moor at the restaurant’s jetty, which is 1.5–2.5 m deep. If the jetty is occupied or too shallow, guests can use the buoy field opposite.

From 1 May to 1 October Zoran Ramov and his family serve and cook various dishes with lamb and fresh fish everyday. The fish dishes vary, depending on the daily catch. Zoran will gladly advise his guests on the specialities of the house. Water sports enthusiasts can also buy fresh bread here for their trips.

Restaurant Žakan

Restaurant Žakan

The Žakan lies in the bay of the same name in the island of Ravni Žakan and is open all year round. It offers sophisticated gastronomy. The entire grounds are very well-kept and should also meet guests’ higher demands. At the height of summer, guests need to make a reservation otherwise they will not be able to get a table.

Guests can enjoy beautiful views of the bay and the jetty from the terrace. Not only fish and seafood dishes are served here, but they also cook lamb in the traditional way. A large selection of wines are also on the menu, as are champagne and cigars from the humidor. Water sports enthusiasts will find water and electricity at the solid concrete jetty belonging to the restaurant.

Konoba Piccolo

Konoba Piccolo

The Piccolo in Lojena Bay on the island of Smokvica is a family business and a true classic. Ante Turcinov sails out every morning in his boat to catch only the best fresh fish for his guests. The langusti (lobsters) especially can be recommended. Ante’s wife cooks for the guests and she also takes special requests. Specialities of the house include the cold fish salad and the salted anchovies with cheese. Guests are always welcome from Easter to 15 October between 8 am and midnight. Only a few yachts can moor at the jetty at a water depth of 2.5 m. Alternatively, guests can moor at one of the buoys or anchor in the bay.

Konoba Jadran

The Jadran on the island of Piškera lies barely 300 m diagonally opposite Marina Piškera and is easy to get to in a dinghy. Small motor boats with a maximum draught of 1 m can also moor at the konoba’s jetty. Duško Šiki, the owner of the Jadran, serves his guests barbecued fish and seafood. The Jadran is open from 1 April to 30 September between 7 am and 10 pm.

The mySea team hope you have fun discovering new konobas and indulging yourselves!

Part two will follow soon.

sunset in Kornati National Park