The new Rhodes Marina

In summer 2015 mySea users very unexpectedly reported that the marina was up and running. And as it is a rare event for a marina to open in Greece, mySea got onto a plane to Rhodes to get first-hand information. We arranged to meet Christoforos Charisis, the manager of Rhodes Marinas.
First things first: the new Marinas Rhodes has in fact commenced operations but it is far from being finished. There is still a lot of building work going on at the site. Many buildings are still shells, others are ready to move into. Apart from one yacht agency all of the premises are, however, still empty. There is still no bar, café or restaurant. However, you only have to cross the busy street to find various restaurants, a bakery and two supermarkets.

Rhodes Marinas from the north

Christoforos Charisis assures me, however, that many of the premises in the new builds are either already let are about to be let. According to him, an exclusive restaurant, a coffee chain, various clothing stores, a gym with a spa area, a chandlery, service agencies as well as a rental company for vehicles and scooters will be moving in.
The sanitary facilities and the room for washing machines and dryers are, however, finished. The atmosphere is, as expected, modern and functional.

Modern Reception of Marina Rhodes

80% of the berths have already been equipped with mooring lines, the missing 20% will be coming in winter. Water, electricity, Internet and TV connections are also available. At Rhodes Marina, free Wi-Fi (1 Mb/sec.) is standard. High-speed connections can be obtained for an additional charge. Wired LAN connections are available, too. Connections with the typical RJ-45 connectors have been integrated into the power points.
The marina has berths for up to 380 yachts. 10% of the berths are going to be available to charter companies. Yachts up to 60 m long can moor at the breakwater. CCTV cameras have already been installed there. The other berths are also going be fitted with a camera surveillance system. Therefore, yacht owners will be able to keep an eye on their yachts even during winter. The entire marina is fenced and monitored by security staff.

The new buildings of Marina Rhodes

The new Rhodes Marina is located about 2.5 km from the old town, the town of Rhodes is about 4 km away. A taxi into town costs about 7 euros each way.
The fuel station located at the north mole is in fact ready but still has no operating licence. They are planning to open for the 2016 season. Until then, boaters have to fall back on the tankers as is otherwise customary in Greece.
There are no cranes in the marina at the moment. The area for dry berths has a capacity for about 220 yachts and should be ready by 2017. There will also be a powerful crane there by then.

Marinas Rhodes

The completed facilities as well as the intended opening of exclusive stores and restaurants shows the direction the marina is taking: Rhodes Marinas is to become a resort for super and mega yachts. So far, the density of super and mega yachts in the Dodecanese is still comparatively low. If you go across to Turkey, it’s a different story. Here, many exclusive marinas have sprung up, such as the Palmarina in Yalikavak or the Club Marina in Gocek. Whether Rhodes Marinas’ strategy is successful and well-heeled customers moor here, remains to be seen.

Find out more about Marinas Rhodes on interactive cruising guide mySea.

Kato Koufonisi:

Kato Koufonisi is a long, virtually uninhabited island with an impressive bizarre south coast. A few dropouts and cattle breeders live in Kato Koufonisi but only in summer, the rest of the year the island is uninhabited. There is absolutely nowhere to buy provisions and most of the anchorages can only be recommended when the weather is calm. But this is why they are even more spectacular. When the weather is totally calm, the visibility conditions good and you approach very carefully, you can anchor on the south side between the rocks, which look like they are forming streaks in the water. Land lines are imperative. You moor here between sand-coloured rock layers sloping towards the sea at the ends of which small caves have been eroded into the rock. There are small pebble beaches at the waterfront. The water is crystal clear. Simply glorious.

Slightly further to the south is the anchorage “Nero”. Boats can moor here at a water depth of approx. 6-8 metres, without shoals. The waterfront has fine sand. The surrounding hills covered in trees and bushes have formed a small valley where there is a bony but shady tree at the crest. The perfect place to unpack the boat’s barbecue and to cook a meal on shore. And get to feel like Robinson Crusoe.

Pano Koufonisi:

Pano Koufonisi is a virtually circular island with a beautiful Chora and fine sandy beaches but only a few sheltered anchorages. Koufonisi Port does provide shelter and secure anchorages but only for a few small yachts in the 10-metre class. In addition, most spots are occupied by locals. Parianos Port, which lies slightly further to the north-west, is nearly completely in the hands of fishermen and offers practically no places for visiting boats. But you can buy fresh fish straight from the cutter. It is worth exploring the Chora, simply drop your anchor slightly to the east of the harbour entrance. Shelter from the Meltemi is moderate but the sandy bottom is holding decently and the water is wonderfully clear.

The Chora with its white houses goes up the gentle hillside. In the village there are a number of good taverns, two supermarkets, a bakery and a bicycle hire. It is not possible to hire scooters or even cars in Pano Koufonisi.

In the north of the island bizarre rock formations, some lime wash, some sandy-coloured, tower above, bracing themselves against the waves rolling in. The Meltemi whips the foam over the cliffs. An impressive sight, especially from the sea. In the NE of the island lies Pori Bay, a true dream for all boaters. The large crescent-shaped bay provides plenty of room to swing anchor. Once the anchor is buried, the sandy seabed has an excellent hold. If light rocking does not bother you, then you can moor here and will be sheltered here with winds up to wind force 6. But if the winds are stronger than 6, then the swell becomes unpleasant as the offshore cliffs are flat and the wind has no obstructions and is totally unbridled when it hits the bay.

The extensive waterfront is made up of fine sand, the crystal-clear turquoise water is ideal for swimming and the seabed slopes gently. Also perfect for children. There are two taverns, which both serve as a breakfast bar, beach café and tavern at the same time.

The Lesser Cyclades islands are also called “Erimonisia”, which more or less means “the deserted ones“ or “the lonely ones”. In fact, the islands are not really well-known among boaters and it is a lot less crowded than their more well-known sisters in the north and south. Numerous yachts bustle around here only in high summer, bringing turmoil to the otherwise so tranquil way of life of the locals. Iraklia and Schoinousa in detail (Kato Koufonisi and Pano Koufonisi are presented in the second part of this article):

Iraklia

Iraklia is the most south-westerly island of the Lesser Cyclades, bare and mainly unspectacular. However, it does look friendly and inviting. The port of Iraklia lies on the north-eastern side in the fjord-like bay of Ormos Georgiou. When approaching the port, a power generator can be seen on the starboard side. Yachts moor stern-to at the short side of the quay. The inner side, which is better protected, is occupied mainly by local boats. The north side of the pier has to be kept clear for the regular ferry service. Should the harbour be full, then it is also possible to anchor slightly further to the north-west. The harbour protects from southerly winds, but it can become rough when the winds blow from the north. When there are strong Meltemi winds, it is better to haul your boat to Schoinousa. There are several lovely taverns, bars and smaller supermarkets on shore.

Livadi Bay is located slightly further to the south-west. When the weather is calm or there are southerly winds, boats can anchor here at 4-8 metres in front of a beautiful sandy beach. In summer a tavern is open now and then.

Alimnia Bay lies in the south-east of the island and provides two more anchor opportunities amidst unspoilt nature. Only a few people know that there is a plane wreck from the second world war at about 8-10 metres deep in the bay.

Schoinoussa

This quite flat, bare island has a number of wonderful anchorages with dream beaches and one of the best havens for sheltering from the Meltemi when it blows yet again. Local skippers regard Mersini harbour as one of the best harbours which will shelter you from strong Meltemi winds. There is practically no swell, but expect some strong gusts. Yachts moor stern-to at the eastern side of the ferry dock (let out a lot of chain when the Meltemi blows). The south side of the jetty is reserved for ferries. Alternatively, it is also possible to moor at the quay in the north. However, the water is quite shallow there at just over 2 metres and boats need to keep at least 2 metres distance to the waterfront.

There are two taverns at the waterfront. The Mersini tavern is very popular with locals, but “Nicolas” also serves good food.

The roughly 10-minute march into the Chora (hillside village called Panagia) is very worthwhile. In 2013 a new footpath was built and is lit-up at night so that visitors can now confidently leave their torches on board. There are several lovely taverns, two supermarkets, a bakery and some cafés in the Chora. In the off-season, time seems to stand still. Farmers riding on their donkeys, wind chimes converting the Meltemi into a harmonious sound, chickens clucking and a breathtaking view of the Aegean Sea. Panagia radiates a sense of calm. Hectic doesn’t seem to exist here. Simply soak up this tranquillity and enjoy.

In the south of the island there are a few sheltered anchorages. In Livadi, for example, boats anchor at a water depth of 7-10 metres in front of a beautiful beach with fine sand. At the Livadi restaurant, guests can not only eat well but can also enjoy the glorious view of the bay. And should a guest have a toothache, then Nikos, the boss’ son, can help. Nikos works as a dentist for 6 months of the year and the rest of the time he helps out in his parents’ restaurant. Hardly surprising considering how beautiful the island is.

Anchorages in the north and east of the island of Kea

An alternative to the large bay of Ag. Nikolaos is Otzias Bay, slightly further north. The long bay is always a little rough when there is a north wind, and there is an obvious swell in the bay. When there are NE winds, the bay is untenable and visitors need to look for another option as soon as possible.

The crescent-shaped bay can accommodate a whole range of yachts, which anchor here on a sandy seabed in front of the cordoned-off swimming area. If visitors do not feel like cooking, they will find two taverns on shore. The “Annas” tavern is open all year round and has a glorious view of the bay from its upper terrace.

In the north-east, Ormos Kalydonychi cuts into the steep rocky shore of Kea. The bay is also known as Spathi, as that is the name of the nearby cape. The bay provides shelter from the Meltemi even though there is a slight swell and gusts may blow through the river valley. Yachts anchor swinging freely on the hook without a shore line at a water depth of 3-8 m above a sandy seabed with good holding. On shore, a lovely sandy beach stretches out and it is often empty, behind that a few scattered holiday homes and fields. A small tavern is open in the summer. The bay is isolated and can only be reached by boat. There is a footpath into the valley but it is extremely winding and a struggle to walk on.

There are a number of small bays with crystal-clear water, some with lovely sandy beaches, along the steep coast towards the south. But the bays are all quite deep and do not provide enough protection. Visitors hoping to enjoy some peace and quiet should certainly explore the small bays when the weather is calm.

Ormos Polais lies in the south-east of Kea. The landscape of the bay is very beautiful, but it does not provide enough protection when there is a north wind, therefore it is only suitable for a stopover when the weather is calm. There is a visible rock in the middle of the bay. The shallow reef between the rock and the beach divides the bay more or less into two sections. There is a beach, roughly 200 m long, at the waterfront as well as two chapels.

The bay is well-known for the ruins of a temple dedicated to Apollo and Athena. The ruins have been recently restored and rebuilt.

Anchorages on the west coast of Kea

There are more sheltered anchorages on the west coast of Kea. The most well-known is Ormos Kavia near Koundouros.  The swimming bay, surrounded by a barren rocky landscape, provides protection from the north winds in summer. When entering the bay, it is necessary to pay attention to the shoal, which is marked on the map and lies far out at sea (and therefore unexpected). In the bay, yachts need to keep enough distance to the waterfront as rock ledges run far into the water from the headland. The calmest anchorages are on the western side if the land lines are run out towards the north. These spots, however, are usually always taken first.

St. George´s tavern has been closed since 2011, but the bungalow resort is still operating.

There are lovely holiday apartments around the bay, which mainly belong to affluent Athenians. However, the culinary offer is limited. During the day the club-like complex, Porto Koundouros, serves good food, snacks and cocktails.

It borders on Pisses Bay to the north. This green bay is surrounded by an impressive mountain backdrop and lies in the largest valley in Kea where fruit and vegetables are cultivated. The sandy beach, some 400 m long, skirts the waterfront. Although the bay is completely open towards the west and there is often a slight swell, yachts can still moor here overnight. The most secure places are on the northern side with a line towards the shore.  Two taverns on land are on hand should visitors decide not to want to cook themselves.

Vroskopos is extremely popular, even though mostly unknown. Well-hidden, if coming from inland it can only be reached by a winding beaten path but it is a struggle to get through. This sheltered bay faces north. There is a glorious white beach at the vertex of the bay. The water is crystal clear and is ideal for swimming. If staying overnight, shore lines should be run out towards the north and a lot of chain let out as the bay is quite deep. Many Athenians come to this idyll in the high season and at weekends in their power RIBs and motor yachts.

Ormos Ag. Nikolaos is a large bay in the north-west of the island and is made up of the two smaller bays of Ormos Leivadi in the south-west and Ormos Vourkari in the east.

In Vourkari the harbour of the same name is very popular with sailors as it protects from the prevailing winds and there is less swell there compared to the ferry port in Korrisia. (Sailing)Yachts normally moor here bow-to as the rock-fill directly at the quay could damage (deep) rudder blades. To make the descent over the pulpit easier, some taverns and a small furniture dealer have built wooden steps.There is water and electricity at the jetty. The required pre-paid cards can be obtained at the supermarket where they also sell fresh bread in the mornings.

Vourkari is a typical Greek harbour with flair. The narrow thoroughfare runs directly past the harbour basin. The narrowness of the street seems to encourage most car and scooter drivers to adopt a moderate driving style, which is appropriate as the yachties tend to use the narrow pavements and half the street for spontaneous “meetings”. The later the evening (and with it alcohol consumption), the more the street becomes a wide pier.

There are a few restaurants and bars right on the street. The Aristos tavern is especially favoured for its excellent fish dishes. Kostas, the proprietor, very modestly refers to his restaurant as “world famous”. Each guest will have to decide for themselves in how far this is true. But it does not affect its popularity, especially among water sports enthusiasts. Many Greeks come to Vourkari at the weekend just to eat the fresh fish dishes at “Aristos”.

Whoever likes fish but prefers to cook on board should wait for the fishing cutters, which come in at about 9-10 am. The fishermen sell their catch straight from their boats if the catch was large enough.

The culinary offers in the harbour of Vourkari are not only limited to one fish tavern. Visitors who prefer meat should visit the “Vourkarion”. The meat comes from animals bred and slaughtered on the island. Most of them live wild in the mountains and valleys, which obviously benefits the taste.

Should any visitors not have been able to get one of the popular berths at the quay, then they can anchor in the bay. In the off-peak season it is possible to moor with the bow anchor swinging freely on the hook without a shore line when there are only a few yachts in the bay. However, the water is deep and the seabed does not provide a good hold everywhere. It is better to moor stern-to opposite the harbour. There are a number of fixing points  in the rock for the land lines. If mooring here, then it is worth visiting Istrofi tou Mimi. Guests sit right on the beach with their feet in the sand and can observe the incoming yachts as they manoeuvre, very romantic.

The harbour in Korissia ia a good alternative to Vourkari. South of the ferry dock, there are berths for approx. 20 yachts. There is also water and electricity here for a small contribution. The cards can be obtained at the kiosk right next to the “Magazes” restaurant. Christos, the proprietor and heart and soul of “Magazes”, will gladly assist guests if they have problems with their yacht and need help.

The harbour town consists of a long quay and two rows of houses in the background, towered over by the pastel-coloured church with the blue dome. There is a wide road in between, which is closed to traffic every evening between 8 pm and 6 am in the season. And so the area around the harbour basin suddenly becomes a pedestrian area. A true blessing, not only for a peaceful night.

The harbour protects well but the north wind causes a slight swell in the harbour, which is why it is recommended to moor with the own mast offset from the neighbour’s. Incoming and outgoing ferries also generate a slight swell, but it has no large effect on the anchored yachts. The northern part of the dock is reserved for ferries. A small elevation on the pier marks where the berths for yachts start. Water and electricity is available for a fee.

There are a number of bars, cafés and restaurants along the waterfront. Popular with locals and tourists alike are “Magazes” and “To steki Stroggili”. The fresh fish dishes at “Magazes” are highly recommended. “To steki Stroggili”, which is located slightly up the mountain, is also known for its good meat and cooked dishes. There are also a few simple restaurants and a fast-food restaurant. The many cafés are ideal for observing the going-ons in the harbour.